The side deck cold molding is finished and perhaps all such work for now on.  Added spinnaker chute into bow with reinforcements.  

Side deck without stapling requires finesse.  Spinnaker chute port glued up.  Forestay plate prep.

We installed the rudder stock in the bearings and they appear to have shrunk in diameter slightly. The lower barb seal slightly interferes but it is minor.  A little sanding opened the diameter but it still takes some effort to install.  For now going to let it sit with a film of Teflon lubricant.  The rudder tiller assembly seems to be sound enough to allow closing up the aft deck after the side deck work finishes.  Thrust bearing block bolts in nicely, needs paint and final fit before deck install.  It will be surrounded by sealant but removable for bearing top access.  To do:

• Sand out first side deck layer.
• Second layer side decks cold mold.
• Sand out second layer, seal.
• Fit spinnaker chute mouth and level for fore deck installation.
• Build in bow profile over cleat base, shape, prep for cleat installations.
• Console construct and mount.
• Final aft tank checkout.  Rudder stock seal.  Thrust bearing block mount.
• Station 7-8, 3-4 space pad-eye mounts for restraining buoyancy bags.
• Level deck surfaces fore and aft.
• Fit fore-stay plate and rig to keelson.
• Install deck plates 4x.

 

Working on four things at once as the rain keeps falling.  Set up a ring structure for the spinnaker chute and finished up the tiller assembly except for key way slot.   Deck ply sheet reaches up to black mark on sheer so it will encompass chute.

Here the side deck is developing fairly quickly.  The inner edge is two 3mm plys lap joint on the inner support beam.  I suppose that will get a small trim or be painted over...TBD.  The shroud and spinnaker cleat support is built in but the jib traveler is also TBD.   The weather has been very wet and slowed the epoxy work but maybe this could wrap up by the end of the week.

HMMMM!

Working on tiller block assembly.

Preparing all deck surfaces for skin.  Much easier than I thought.

Decided to use Loctite pro line marine sealant (thanks Mac) and adhesive between tank and cover as well as around perimeter.  This required less than one tube.  Also I skipped on screws around the perimeter.  Fearing this product was as mighty as 3M's 5200 I was relieved that after curing quite fast I could remove it with some work fairly easily.  Opening and servicing these spaces apart from the access ports will not be pleasant but hopefully that will happen in a distant time.

All panels are installed and the shroud bases complete. I installed the seat stringers and edges.  3 mm cold molding strips are ready to start the two layers for the mid deck.  Fitted the tiller thrust bearing block so it is removable.

I like the flying Genoa system here:  https://flyingfifteen.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/free-floating-genoa-barbers/  but the cockpit design in trying to adhere to the rules is a bit aggressive on the inner edge of the side decks.  Most boats show a bevel but I came at it with a sharp edge.  If I can layout lines without rubbing the edge I will try it otherwise I need to add a track attachment point along the stringers before the skin goes on.

When the for, aft and mid deck skins are on the main structural is finished.  Trying not to think about the thousand other steps other than the big picture:  Console, floor, bow, keel and step, splash...mast/sails kit.

Tank covers will be installed with either butyl tape or silicone along perimeter with screws and a silicone bead at upper edge to block water pooling.  Shroud anchor points installed in front tanks.